Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.